Vega Sicilia more than a Wine

Some estates have an aura about them: they produce the greatest and most sought-after wines, often wines of legend. Sometimes the legend is created by clever marketing, sometimes by stratospheric pricing, sometimes by 100-point scores from influential critics. Sometimes the wines they produce are such exquisite expressions of the winemaker’s art, that they can achieve this legendary status purely on quality. Sometimes it’s a bit of each.

One such estate is Spain’s Vega Sicilia. My first experience of Vega Sicilia was when Bibendum substituted a couple of bottles of Valbuena for the Quintarelli Amarone I had ordered. Since then I have had the opportunity to taste or drink Vega Sicilia’s wines on just a couple of occasions. They were impressive, to say the least, so when the opportunity to visit the winery in Valbuena de Duero arose, I moved quickly.

Vega Sicilia likes to promote an aura of myth and a legend about its wine: the words recur in their publicity materials. For a myth, there’s a surprising amount that’s well recorded both about the history of Vega Sicilia and the winery. Certainly, it is an exclusive wine, made from low yields and meticulous wine-making. The wines age extremely well, and their limited availability adds to the myth.

History

In 1848 a Basque landowner, Don Toribio Lecanda, met the bankrupt Marques de Valbuena and bought from him a 2,000 hectare estate, the Pago de la Vega Santa Cecilia y Carrascal. At some stage that was shortened to Vega Sicilia. For the first 16 years, the land was used for agriculture, until Toribio’s son, Don Eloy Lecanda y Chaves, founded the winery in 1864.
From one Monsieur Beguerié in Bordeaux he bought 18,000 young vines of Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenere, Malbec, Merlot and Pinot Noir. They may have made some wine at that stage, but most of the production went into brandy and ratafia.

In due course Don Eloy went bust and the estate passed to the Herrero family, and another Basque, Domingo Garramiola Txomin, who had trained as a winemaker at the Haro Oenological Centre. At first most of the wine was sold in bulk and – presumably – passed off as Rioja. When the Rioja vineyards had recovered from Phylloxera in 1915, Garramiola turned to making estate bottled wine. Initially this wasn’t a commercial venture, but was given away to aristocratic friends and acquaintances of the Herrero family. The quality of these wines was obviously not an issue: the 1917 and 1918 wines won prizes at the World Fair in Barcelona in 1929, an achievement still celebrated on the labels of Vega Sicilia’s Unico. The next significant change was not until 1982, when the Denominacion de Origen Ribera del Duero was established. This move meant that Unico (and the other wines) was no longer classified as a “simple” table wine. At the same time, the Alvarez family bought Vega Sicilia, and began to modernise and expand, a process which has continued, including the creation of new estates: Bodegas Alion in 1992, Bodegas Alquiriz (in Toro) in 2001, and Tokaj Oremus in Hungary, founded in 1993.

Wines and vineyards

There are three key wines in the Vega Sicilia portfolio that carry the Vega Sicilia name: Vega Sicilia Unico Reserva Especial is the top of the range; a non-vintage reserva blend produced from the best years. Vega Sicilia Unico Gran Reserva is a vintage wine, produced only in good years and released after a minimum of ten years ageing, often much longer. Valbuena is made from younger vines in most years, though in years when Unico is not produced (e.g. 1992, 1997, 2000, 2001), grapes normally destined for Unico will go into Valbuena. It is released only after 5 years’ ageing. A lower grade Valbuena, released after 3 years, was discontinued a few years ago.

The estate covers around 1,000 hectares, of which 230 – 250 are under vines. The best vineyards are on north facing slopes, while others are on the alluvial deposits in the valley: in all there are 19 different soil types. The bulk of the vines are now Tempranillo (here called Tinto Fino or Tinto Pais), with some Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Merlot, Carmenère, and a small amount of Albillo (a local white grape).

In the vineyards, yields are kept low by green harvesting, with each vine producing less than 2 kg of grapes. Harvest at Vega Sicilia is always late – 1st October at the earliest (2003 is the exception, when they started mid September!) – and by hand. They employ a team of around 130 harvesters who pick in several passes through the vineyards. There is another rigorous selection at the winery, and the grapes are carefully de-stemmed. The low yields and careful selection means annual production is only around 25,000 cases, and around 2000 people are on a waiting list for an allocation. Interestingly, buyers are not required to take Alion or Oremus in order to get hold of Vega Sicilia proper – this “bundling” is not uncommon with other “cult” wines.

Winery and winemaking

Two immediate things struck me as I walked round the winery one morning in Summer 2003 with Rafael Alonso, Vega Sicilia’s Export Manager: there is a lot of money floating around the place; everything is in perfect order and there are fancy designer light fittings on the walls. The second striking thing is how absolutely pristine and spotless the place is, to the point of obsessiveness.

Perhaps this goes back to the time when the 1994 Valbuena had to be recalled, it is said because of a cork problem. Certainly, everything is done to avoid any possibility of taint: metal is stainless steel throughout, down to the bands on the barrels, shipping palettes, and even the wedges on which the barrels rest (shown right). The wood used for cases is tested to ensure it is chemically inert, and no wine is shipped between June and October, unless in temperature controlled lorries.The cork testing regime is absolutely rigorous. Their cork suppliers are instructed to send samples, which are independently tested in specialist laboratory in France. Upon delivery, a further double trial is carried out, with further samples being sent for testing. If a cork fails, the whole batch is rejected, with costs charged to the supplier.

On average, Rafael Alonso believes that two out of every three corks are rejected. In the vertical tasting I attended subsequently (see below), 81 bottles were opened and none were corked. To me this proves that the Vega Sicilia regime works, and that the cork industry does have the capability to eliminate TCA, if they take the problem seriously enough.

If your interested in taste the History of Vega Sicilia the Following is a link you may like to get the chance and find almost a complete collection of the Best Vega Sicilia VintagesKoopWines.com

Vineyard 29 is coming to town!

Vineyard 29 have classic winemaking techniques

2009 is a mile-stone year in Vineyard 29’s story. It was twenty years ago that the vines for our Vineyard 29 ’29 Estate’ Cabernet were planted under the watchful eye of and to the exacting standards of David Abreu and his vineyard management team. Ten years later, in 1999, Philippe Melka brought his unsurpassed talents to all the Vineyard 29 wines as our winemaker. The complementary skills of David and Philippe dove-tailed with Chuck’s dedication to utilizing state-of-the-art tools, information and methodology, to truly meld the science and art of winemaking. The resulting wines are a great balance of power and elegance to be enjoyed and savored for many years to come.

We look forward to sharing the next vintage chapter of Vineyard 29 with you this year and are delighted to present to you our collection of Fall 2009 wines. Our Fall 2009 release includes: our 2006 Vineyard 29 ‘29 Estate’ Cabernet Sauvignon, our 2006 Vineyard 29 ‘29 Estate’ Blanc, our 2006 Clare Luce Abbey Cabernet Sauvignon, our 2007 Cru Cabernet Sauvignon and our Aida Estate Late Harvest Zinfandel – 2009 bottling.

The 2006 Vineyard 29 ‘29 Estate’ Cabernet Sauvignon displays all the classic components of cabernet from Vineyard 29. Elegance and lusciousness hint at strength, style and exotic sophistication. 430 cases.

Our 2007 ‘29 Estate’ Blanc conjures thoughts of the stunningly complex whites of Pessac Leognan. It’s 18 months in new French oak create a lushness and poise while the underlying acid structure and tropical fruit flavors provide a crisp fresh flavor profile. True to it’s Bordeaux Blanc style, our Blanc will be enhanced by cellaring for 10 or more years. 130 cases.

We are proud to present our second offering from the Clare Luce Abbey vineyard. The 2006 Clare Luce Abbey Estate Cabernet Sauvignon is open and approachable with aromas of brambly fruits and Indian spices. Enjoy this wonderful 100% cabernet now and for the next five to ten years. 300 cases.

fourth release

We are delighted to present our 2007 Cru Cabernet Sauvignon. Now in its fourth release, Cru is sourced from 9 amazing vineyards from both the hillsides and valley floor in Napa Valley. Our 2007 Cru is deeply concentrated and dense with flavors of red and black cherries that linger. A classically structured cabernet sauvignon, firm but round tannins and balanced acidity will allow our 2007 Cru to age gracefully for 7 to 10 years. 4800 cases.

The 2009 bottling of our Aida Estate Late Harvest Zinfandel is a sweet wine to be savored. Rich toffee and caramel open on the nose and melt into complex layers of mulled plums and figs with hints of blueberry. 50 cases.

Former and Actual Vineyard 29 Winemakers

Gary Galleron (1992—1994) vinified at Grace Family Vineyards
Heidi Barrett (1995—1998) vinified at Grace Family Vineyards
Philippe Melka (1999—2001) vinified at Miner Family Vineyards
Philippe Melka (2002—present) produced and bottled at Vineyard 29

Summer time wine

I know, I’ve been unusually quiet over here. My attention has been very much focused on the brick and mortar space, so the website has taken sort of a back seat for the time being. I apologize.

But I’ll be honest. The brick and mortar isn’t the only reason I’ve been quiet. The other reason is that this time of year, the usual flood of blog posts and newspaper articles on wine tend to get repetitive. I’m not sure I can count the number of articles I read the past two weeks on what wines go best with barbecued or grilled fare. Okay, I hate to be the nay-sayer but pretty much any wine you like is appropriate to serve at your barbecue, and of course it always depends on what food you’re serving. My general rule of thumb is, if you like it, it’s okay to serve. Period.

And now that Memorial Day has passed, and at least until the next wave of “wines to grill by” articles hits us as we approach July 4th, we’re going to be inundated with pieces on Rosé wines, and what people like to call “Summer Sippers.” Patrick Comiskey starts the pink season off with a nice piece in today’s LA Times that functions as a Rosé 101 of sorts. It’s informative, to be sure, but I say enough is enough with the endless cycle of seasonally-themed wine writing.

Sorry for being snarky, but I just think it’s way too easy to fall into the trap of Zin goes with barbecue, Rosé is for summer, and Sauv Blanc sipping on the porch-swing pieces.

Of course, I don’t have a proposed alternative, other than that I’ll continue to write about wines I like, and place them in whatever context might be appropriate for each wine (seasonal or otherwise). Hopefully a few of those posts will come soon. Today, all you get is this rant.

Over and out.

Wine for the rain…

The ’98 Brune et Blonde caresses the palate. Elegant, with mineral, red and black fruit and supple tannins. Seductive balance on the fresh finish, where the firm tannins make a surprise appearance that suggests a bit of cellar time to bring out the best of this red. Best from 2003 through 2010. 31,665 cases made.